How to replicate my 3-day solo cycle along the Moselle River...
A border-hopping, beginner-friendly ride through this scenic wine region.
Hey! I’m Emma from Where’s Ems? 👋🏼 I’ve been travelling full-time since 2023 while building my freelance writing business. Subscribe to receive my regularly updated travel guides, covering things like trip planning, house sitting, working remotely, meeting people and more.
“Just to confirm,” I said, clutching the menu while the waitress tried to pry it from my hands. “I want the LARGE portion.”
That was me, after my first full day cycling along the Moselle — shaky-legged, starving, and so happy to have a glass of wine in my hand.
This part of the world is pretty special, as it’s where France, Germany and Luxembourg meet, and you can hop between all three in a single day without showing a passport. I did this ride as a little gap-filling adventure before a house sit in Luxembourg, and it turned into one of my favourite trips of the year.
And just so you know: I am not an experienced cyclist. In fact, I hadn’t really been on a bike for any decent stretch since childhood. But that’s what makes this route so brilliant. It’s beginner-friendly, but still feels like an adventure.
If you fancy giving it a go, here’s exactly how I did it — and a few things I’d do differently if I went back.
I wrote about the history and collaborative spirit of the Moselle in my first published travel piece for BBC Travel, which you can read here.
📃Cheat sheet
Total: 3/4 days
Countries: Luxembourg, Germany and France.
Highlights: Vineyard wine tastings, Trier’s Roman ruins, scenic riverside views, Schengen Museum, uncrowded cycle paths and the unique freedom of crossing borders passport-free.
Difficulty: Easy to moderate. Mostly flat (German side has a couple of gentle inclines).